Grub Control

How to Get Rid of Grubs Naturally

White grubs are the hidden culprit behind some of the most frustrating lawn and garden problems a homeowner can face. Grubs can cause brown patches that won't go away, turf that peels back like a loose carpet, and mysterious digging by skunks, raccoons, and moles.

These C-shaped, creamy white beetle larvae live underground as the young stage of several scarab beetle species. They feed on the roots of grass, ornamental plants, and vegetables.

NaturesGoodGuys offers natural grub control solutions, including Heterorhabditis bacteriophora beneficial nematodes, that target grubs in the soil at the right life stage for lasting, chemical-free lawn and garden protection.

What Do Grubs Look Like?

White grubs are the larval (immature) stage of beetles in the family Scarabaeidae, the scarab beetles. These larvae are soft-bodied, C-shaped, white to yellowish-white, with a tan-to-brown head capsule and six well-developed legs near the front of the body. They range in length from about 3/4 inch to over 1-1/2 inches depending on species and instar.

White grubs in your lawn live underground, feeding on the roots of grasses, ornamental plants, trees, and shrubs. Grubs in your garden soil can harm garden crop roots. Unlike earthworms, which are beneficial soil organisms, white grubs are true pests that sever plant roots and can kill turf and landscape plants.

White Grub Species

Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica) -- most commonly encountered in the eastern US

The most economically damaging introduced white grub species in North America. Adults are shiny metallic green with copper-brown wing covers and white hair tufts along the sides. They are active June through September and are voracious foliage feeders. Adults skeletonize leaves of over 300 plant species including roses, grapes, lindens, raspberries, and many ornamentals.

European chafer (Amphimallon majalis)

A tan-colored adult beetle about 1/2 inch long. Adults do not feed on foliage. Instead, they swarm briefly at dusk around trees in June and July, then disperse.

Oriental beetle (Anomala orientalis)

Straw-colored adult with variable black markings; about 3/8 inch long. Adults are nocturnal and rarely seen. Their larva (grubs) are highly damaging to turf in the northeastern US and are among the hardest white grub species to control.

Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea)

Dull chestnut brown adult beetle about 3/8 inch. Adults are nocturnal and feed on over 100 plant species at night.

Northern and southern masked chafers (Cyclocephala borealis / C. lurida)

Dull yellow-brown adults about 1/2 inch. The most widespread white grub species in the Midwest and West.

May/June Bug beetles (Phyllophaga spp.)

Large, reddish-brown to dark brown adults (about 1 inch). There are numerous species in this genus. Adults are nocturnal foliage feeders, primarily on oak, ash, and other deciduous trees.

Signs of a White Grub Infestation

White grub damage in turf and gardens is often mistaken for drought stress, disease, or fertilizer burn, especially early in the infestation. Knowing the specific signs of grub damage helps you identify the problem and treat it at the right time:

Turf and lawn damage signs:

Irregular brown patches in the lawn that do not respond to watering.
The tug test -- the most reliable diagnostic: Grab a handful of brown turf and pull upward. If the turf peels back from the soil easily, like a loose carpet, white grub feeding has severed the root system. Roll back the turf mat and count grubs in the exposed soil.
Spongy, soft turf underfoot in previously firm lawn areas.
Thinning turf in sunny, well-irrigated areas

Secondary animal damage

Skunk/Raccoon Digging and Mole Tunneling: Skunks and raccoons are the most reliable early indicators of grub infestations. They detect grubs by scent and dig conical holes in turf and garden beds to extract and eat them. If you see mole tunnels, especially in turf, that is an indicator of grubs.
Bird activity: Crows, starlings, and other birds probing and picking at turf are a sign of grub activity near the surface. This is most visible in late summer and early fall when young grubs are feeding close to the surface

Garden and landscape damage signs:

Wilting or collapsing vegetable seedlings with no visible above-ground cause.
Wilting ornamental shrubs or landscape plants that do not recover with watering.
Visible grubs when digging in the soil

White Grub Life Cycle

The most important concept in grub control is understanding the life cycle stages and which window gives you the best chance of success.

Adult beetles (June to August): Adults emerge from the soil to feed, mate, and lay eggs in turf. Adults of many species seek out areas of high-quality, irrigated turf to lay eggs.
Eggs (July to early August): Females lay eggs in batches of 1 to 5 in the top 2 to 4 inches of soil. They hatch in approximately 2 weeks depending on soil moisture and temperature.
First and second instar larvae (August to October): This is the primary target window. Newly hatched grubs are tiny (about 1/4 inch) and feed near the soil surface on root hairs and fine roots. This is the optimal application window for beneficial nematodes.
Third instar larvae (October through spring): As temperatures drop in fall, grubs molt to the large, third instar and burrow deeper into the soil, below the frost line, to overwinter. In spring, they move back up into the root zone for a brief period of feeding before pupating.
Pupae (late spring): Third instar grubs pupate in earthen cells in the soil. The pupal stage is brief, two to three weeks.
New adults (June to August): New adults emerge and the cycle repeats

Cultural Strategies

Mow at the right height: Taller turf (3 to 4 inch mowing height) develops deeper, more extensive root systems that are better able to tolerate grub feeding.
Reduce irrigation during egg-laying: Reduce irrigation in July and early August, when adult beetles lay eggs. This keeps the soil surface drier and less attractive to beetles.
Fall soil aeration: Core aeration in late summer and early fall disrupts grubs. It exposes them to drying, bird predation, and beneficial organisms like nematodes.

Biological Control

Nematodes for grubs is the cornerstone of an organic grub management program. Because white grubs live underground, soil-dwelling natural enemies can reach and kill them in their protected habitat.

Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (Hb) Beneficial Nematodes

Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (Hb) is the most widely researched and commercially available beneficial nematode species for white grub control. Unlike Steinernema carpocapsae (an ambush hunter at the soil surface), Hb is an active 'cruiser' nematode that moves actively through the soil. This active hunting strategy is ideally suited to locating deeply burrowing white grubs in the root zone. Completely safe for people, pets, and the planet.

Physical/Mechanical Control

Hand removal from garden beds: When preparing vegetable garden beds in previously turf-covered areas, hand-pick and dispose of grubs found during soil preparation.
Beneficial Insect Netting to keep beneficial insects while keeping out harmful ones.

Soft Chemical Control

You can often manage light infestations with monitoring and releasing beneficial insects early. For moderate infestations, use a combination of beneficial insects and targeted treatments. Severe infestations need soft chemical knockdown for pest treatment, then a release of beneficial insects to prevent re-infestation. We offer gentle chemical solutions, including: